Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics: Start time, schedule, perspective

Adam Ondra is probably the best mountaineer in the world today.

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Climbing is making its debut today Tokyo Olympics..


Traditional mountaineering is done outdoors without a pre-determined route.

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Climbing at the Olympics, which combines speed, bouldering and traditional leads, is like a mixed event like a triathlon. Anyway, it’s almost certainly one of the most entertaining sports at the Tokyo Olympics.

Here’s what you need to know:

Time to watch mountain climbing at the Tokyo Olympics

NS Olympic master schedule Already released, sports climbing qualifying events will be held on August 3rd and 4th.

Here is the breakdown of men …

  • The Men’s Speed ​​Climbing Qualifier will take place on August 3rd at 4am EDT (1am PDT).
  • The Men’s Bouldering Qualifier will take place on August 3rd at 5am EDT (2am PDT).
  • The Men’s Lead Climbing Qualifier will take place on August 3rd at 8am EDT (5am PDT).

And for women …

  • Women’s speed climbing qualifiers will take place on August 4th at 4am EDT (1am PDT).
  • Women’s bouldering qualifiers will take place on August 4th at 5am EDT (2am PDT).
  • Women’s lead climbing qualifiers will take place on August 4th at 8am EDT (5am PDT).

The final will be held on August 5th and 6th. In the US, NBC broadcasts At the event, the BBC will secure rights in the UK and Channel Seven, 7 Mate and 7 Two will secure rights in Australia. All events will be held at Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.

How mountaineering works at the Olympics

Sport climbing can be divided into three areas: speed climbing, lead climbing and bouldering. Not all countries are represented.that’s all 20 athletes by gender (A total of 40 climbers) are allowed to participate in the competition, and only two athletes by country and gender will participate in a particular event.

For your reference, International Olympic Committee Currently, we are only aware of two genders, female and male.Currently Regulations for athletes to identify as transgender, Both women and men, compete. However, there are no guidelines or judgments for athletes who are not identified as women or men-including non-binary, gender and genderqueer athletes.

The complex nature of climbing at the Olympics is somewhat controversial. Speed ​​climbing requires a completely different skill set than bouldering or lead climbing. At the next Olympics, speed climbing will be rolled out as a separate event, leaving bouldering and lead climbing as a combined event.

Speed ​​climbing


Two climbers, one wall.


Speed ​​climbing is relatively easy. There are two climbers with safety ropes and one 15 meter wall set at a 95 degree angle. Climbers compete with each other to take the lead, with the fastest climber winning. The speed route is always exactly the same. The same thing is held in the same position at the same angle. The addition of speed climbing is somewhat controversial in the climbing community as it requires a completely different skill set than any other climbing discipline.



Athletes use physical and mental precision to climb the top of the bouldering route.


Bouldering takes place on short walls, and climbers try to scale as many routes as possible on a 4 meter high wall in 4 minutes. Each route (also known as a bouldering problem) is laid out with specific colored hand and foot holds, which can be difficult depending on the size and spacing of the holds. The climber completes the problem by grabbing the top hold with both hands.

Bouldering has traditionally been about strength and finger strength, but recently competition route setters have created problems that require delicate adjustments and explosive gymnastics. This will be fun to watch.

Lead climbing


In lead climbing, participants protect themselves with ropes when climbing high.


Lead climbing is arguably the most recognizable of the three events. Climbers can climb walls higher than 15 meters in 6 minutes. They are free to run the rope while it is fixed to the wall, using a safety rope that attaches to the quickdraw along the way. If two athletes reach the same point on the wall, the first to reach there is the winner.

In both bouldering and lead climbing, climbers cannot practice climbing on the route before competing or seeing each other scaling the wall. Before the timer starts, it only takes a few minutes to look up the route and decide on a strategy.

Medal system


Olympic and Paralympic medals are made from recycled electronic devices. By the way, the Olympics do not change the year of medals.

Tokyo Olympics

If you find the qualifying system a bit complicated, take a deep breath.There is only One set of medals will be awarded for each genderTherefore, all three events will determine which country will win gold, silver and bronze.

Speed ​​climbing discipline is bracketed, bouldering is leaderboarded, and athletes face each other directly. Lead climbing counts as 1 point each time you grab a wall, providing a point system where the highest climbing athlete gets the highest score.

When all athletes are arranged in order of placement by event, the placement numbers are multiplied and the climber with the lowest score wins the medal. Due to the scoring format, each climber competes at each event. For example, if an athlete is second in speed climbing, third in bouldering, and first in lead climbing, the overall score is 6 (2 x 3 x 1 is equal to 6).

Who should I be careful about?

At men’s events, favorites are almost certain Tomoa Narasaki.. Some other climbers, such as Adam Ondra and Alex Megos, are considered to be stronger climbers in terms of performance on real rocks, but this is competitive climbing and a very different beast. is. Narasaki was born in the darkness of comp climbing. He has been a bouldering annoyance and, of all the strong mountaineers, he has evolved into the strangest of speed climbing. This gives him a great shot by asking him for money.

At women’s events you have to choose Janja Garnbret.. She was literally invincible in the competition scene, especially in bouldering. There are many other things worth seeing. From Japan, both Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka have great shots. Noguchi is probably the most decorated female comp climber of all time, and Nonaka is a great all-rounder who competes well for speed-a boogie event that most top climbers are worried about.

I can’t wait to see how everything is done. Climbing at the Tokyo Olympics: Start time, schedule, perspective

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